Caring for your Fine Art Prints
- Johan Siggesson
- 6 days ago
- 7 min read
Fine art wildlife prints are much more than decoration. They are lasting pieces of craftsmanship, stories from the wild brought to life as fine art prints. With the right care, they can retain their richness and depth for generations. Whether your piece is framed and hanging proudly in your home or stored flat for safekeeping, understanding how to handle and display it will preserve its beauty for many years.
Handling Your Prints
When a collector receives a print, the first instinct is often to unroll or touch the paper straight away. But even the smallest marks or bends can leave a lasting impression. Be careful!
Hands off!
Never handle unframed prints with your bare hands. Always use cotton gloves. The natural oils from skin can leave subtle marks, on many type of papers. My prints are mostly printed on Baryta papers and these surfaces are designed for depth and tonal richness but are sensitive to contact.
Support from beneath
I suggest you try to handle your prints as little as possible. Leave it to a professional framer who has the right tools and experience. If you have to handle your print, lift or move it using both hands, supporting it from underneath. Avoid holding by the edges alone, as this can cause dents or micro-creases. Larger prints are especially difficult to manage, and it is very easy to mark the paper and damage the surface.
Avoid rolling tightly
If your print is delivered rolled, store it in its tube only temporarily. Take it to a framer as soon as possible. If your curiosity gets the best of you and you unroll your print at home, take care when it is time to roll it up again. Tight rolling can create tiny cracks in heavier fine art papers over time.
As someone who produces and ships prints regularly, I’ve seen how careful handling at this stage makes all the difference. A gentle, steady approach keeps your investment pristine from the very start.
Choosing the Right Glass or Acrylic
The glazing that protects a print can change both its look and its lifespan. There are several options, each suited to different conditions and budgets.
Standard glass
Standard glass is the most common and affordable option. It is clear and easy to find but offers limited UV protection. It also tends to reflect light, so it is best used in spaces where the print will not face windows or bright lamps. It works well if your print will hang in a spot away from strong light.
Museum glass
For collectors who want the very best protection and clarity, museum glass is the gold standard. It blocks up to 99% of UV rays and has an almost invisible surface that reduces reflections. In exhibitions or bright interiors, this kind of glass allows the colours, contrast, and fine detail of limited edition wildlife prints to shine through without glare.
Acrylic (Plexiglas)
Acrylic is lightweight and shatter-resistant. It is ideal for larger wildlife wall art or for hanging above furniture. High-quality acrylics can also include UV protection. The only trade-off is static, which attracts dust, so always clean with a microfiber cloth and avoid chemical sprays.
In my own work, I often recommend museum glass for smaller framed pieces and acrylic for oversized prints that need reduced weight. The goal is to protect the image while keeping it easy to display safely.
Type | Key Features | Best For |
Standard Glass | Clear and affordable, limited UV protection, prone to reflections | Prints hung away from direct light |
Museum Glass | 99% UV protection, low reflection, excellent clarity | High-value or limited edition prints in bright rooms |
Acrylic (Plexiglas) | Lightweight, shatter-resistant, available with UV protection | Large prints or areas where safety and weight matter |
Understanding Fine Art Papers and Inks
Not all photographic papers are the same. Fine art printing relies on materials engineered for archival longevity and rich tonal range.
Fine art baryta papers
These papers have a delicate sheen and a deep tonal depth that suits black and white images beautifully. They mimic the classic look of darkroom prints. Baryta coatings enhance contrast but are sensitive to moisture, so they should be framed promptly and kept in stable environments. This is my personal favourite paper and the vast majority of my prints are printed on this type of paper.
Cotton rag papers
Made from 100% cotton, these papers have a velvety matte finish and are naturally acid-free. They’re prized for their texture and archival qualities. Cotton rag holds pigment beautifully and resists fading when kept away from strong UV light.
Pigment-based inks
My fine art wildlife prints are made using pigment inks rather than dye inks. Pigment particles sit on the paper’s surface or just underneath, producing crisp detail and excellent longevity, often over 100 years under normal indoor lighting.
Dye-based inks (for comparison)
Dye inks penetrate deeper into the paper, giving vivid colour but reduced lightfastness. For collectors, pigment printing is the only true archival choice.
In my own studio, every print is produced with pigment inks on museum-grade paper to ensure tonal accuracy and permanence. It’s the same standard used by top galleries and museums worldwide.
Material | Description | Care Notes |
Baryta Paper | Subtle sheen and deep contrast, ideal for black and white prints | Avoid high humidity, frame promptly |
Cotton Rag Paper | 100% cotton, matte finish, highly archival | Keep away from direct sunlight |
Pigment Inks | Long-lasting and lightfast, used for museum-quality prints | Handle carefully to avoid surface marks |
Dye Inks | Bright colour but lower longevity | Best avoided for fine art prints |
Framing and Mounting Tips
How your print is framed matters as much as the materials it’s made from. A well-chosen frame complements the image while protecting it from environmental stress.
Use acid-free materials
Always insist on acid-free mounts and backings. Ordinary cardboard and adhesives can yellow or release acids that damage prints over time.
Matting for protection
A mat provides both aesthetic balance and a small air gap between the glass and the print surface, which prevents sticking in humid conditions.
Professional framing
For limited edition wildlife prints or other special pieces, it’s worth using a professional framer. An experienced framer will use archival techniques and ensure everything sits perfectly flat.
Avoid adhesives
Be careful when attaching your print directly to a backing with tape or glue. If possible consider using archival corners or hinging methods that keep the paper free to expand and contract naturally.
Framing is more than presentation. It is preservation. The right approach can protect your print for generations.
Positioning Your Prints at Home
Where and how a print is displayed can influence its longevity. A bit of thought before hanging goes a long way.
Avoid direct sunlight
Even the most durable inks will fade under constant direct sunlight. Hang your artwork where light is indirect, or use blinds to filter harsh rays.
Stable temperature and humidity
Avoid bathrooms, kitchens, or walls above radiators. Fluctuating humidity can cause paper to warp or adhesives to weaken.
Think about reflection and viewing angle
If you have large windows or strong lighting, position prints where reflections won’t obscure the image. Museum glass helps reduce glare, but thoughtful placement matters too.
Complementary spaces
Your choice of wall can shape the mood of a print. A calm portrait like a gorilla or elephant might work best in a quiet space such as an office or study, while energetic scenes like galloping horses fit beautifully in open, lively areas.
Every photographic print deserves the right light and space. When it feels naturally at home in its setting, it becomes part of the room’s character.
Cleaning and Maintenance
Fine art prints require only minimal care, but consistency keeps them in top form.
Glass and acrylic surfaces
Dust frames regularly with a soft, dry microfiber cloth. Never spray cleaner directly onto glass or acrylic, as it can seep behind the frame. Instead, apply it to the cloth first.
Frame edges and backing
Every few months, check the frame edges and hanging wire. Tighten any loose fittings and watch for moisture buildup.
Unframed prints
If you’re storing unframed prints, keep them flat between acid-free tissue sheets in a cool, dry place. Avoid attics, garages, and basements, where temperature and humidity fluctuate.
These simple habits protect your collection and maintain that gallery-fresh look year after year.
Long-Term Preservation
For serious collectors or anyone with several fine art wildlife prints, proper storage adds another layer of protection.
Archival storage boxes
Use acid-free, museum-grade boxes or portfolios. Label each print clearly and store them horizontally. This avoids pressure on the surface and keeps edges sharp.
Climate control
A stable environment around 20°C and 50% relative humidity is ideal. Sudden temperature shifts can cause paper expansion or ink cracking.
Rotation
If you enjoy displaying multiple prints, consider rotating them occasionally. It’s a subtle way to protect them from light exposure while refreshing your interior.
Collectors who treat their prints like the artworks they are will find that even decades later, the colours and tones remain remarkably true.
Final Thoughts
You don't need special equipment to care for your fine art wildlife prints, just awareness, patience, and respect for the materials. By controlling light, temperature, and handling, you ensure your investment remains as striking as the day you unwrapped it.
Each print represents a moment in the wild: the silent strength of a lion, the stillness of an elephant, the rhythm of running horses. When cared for thoughtfully, these images continue to carry their story forward, untouched by time.
If you’ve collected one of my prints or are considering adding a new piece to your space, you can explore my fine art wildlife prints or contact me directly for advice on framing and display.
Every fine art photographic print is created using archival pigment inks on museum-grade paper and includes a signed certificate of authenticity, built to last, just as every story from the wild should.
