Black Leopard Safari - Day 2

This was my first full day in Laikipia and the anticipation was high. The main reason for being here is, of course, Giza, the black leopard. Since she is most often seen in the evening, at night, or very early in the morning, the rest of the hours were spent searching for other leopards or wildlife and taking breaks during the hottest part of the day.

A very special experience. Giza the black leopard appearing.

The alarm rang at 5am. Half an hour later we were gathered around the fire with tea and coffee in hand, sharing stories about photography. By 6 we were on the road.

For the first hour we focused on the area where Giza has been known to appear. The odds were low, but with such a rare subject every chance feels worth chasing. When nothing turned up, we turned our attention to the other leopards of the conservancy and the wide variety of wildlife that calls Laikipia home. Grevy’s zebra, reticulated giraffe, and countless other species offered themselves as subjects, but in the back of my mind was always the thought that somewhere nearby, a black leopard might be moving unseen through the bush.

The morning passed quietly. I barely touched my camera and didn’t mind. I hadn’t come here for zebra or giraffe. By midday we returned to camp for a rest and lunch.

At 4 the ritual of tea and cake began, and by 4:30 we were back in the vehicles, ready for another attempt at finding Giza or one of the other leopards. For hours we searched, and as night fell we reached the area where she often hunts. Giza is raising two cubs at the moment, hidden away on the other side of the river in a neighbouring conservancy. She only crosses into this area for food. The night before, she had not appeared. Tonight we hoped our luck would change.

We positioned ourselves along a track she frequently crosses. At exactly 7pm one of the spotters whispered “Giza” and pointed to a narrow path cutting through the dense undergrowth. Out of the shadows she appeared, walking straight towards us.

A brief clip of Giza disappearing just as fast as she appeared.

The next moments were tense and electric. Cameras shifted, settings changed, and hearts raced as she approached. Without a glance in our direction, she crossed the road and slipped back into the bush. We turned the vehicles and followed carefully, taking care not to block her or disrupt her hunt.

Giza grew up surrounded by vehicles and treats them as part of her environment. At times it even seems she uses them as cover when stalking prey. That evening she pushed forward with determination, moving quickly and deliberately. We caught only fleeting glimpses of her through the vegetation, using every gap to fire a few frames.

Photographing a black leopard at night, in thick cover, with only the dim light of a spotlight was one of the most challenging assignments I have ever faced. It was also one of the most exhilarating. A test of skill and patience, but also a privilege to witness.

Tomorrow we will try again.