Black Leopard Safari - Day 3

Day three began early, just as it usually does. We made a quick detour to check on Giza’s territory, hoping she might still be in the area. The odds are always low in the mornings, and as expected, she was nowhere to be seen, just like the previous day. On trips like these the rhythm may seem repetitive, yet each day reveals something entirely new.

Giza is oblivious to the cars and walks right by them.

Not far from camp we encountered a striking group of vulturine guinea fowl gathered in soft golden light. We lingered with them for a while, enjoying the chance to work with such a beautiful scene. Shortly after, a large puff adder appeared right by the roadside with a freshly killed bird. The snake’s prize was on the larger side, and it circled its meal several times before figuring out the right approach. As snakes must feed head first, it eventually found the head and began the long process of swallowing. We left it mid-meal and carried on in search of leopards.

Before long we spotted what guides often call the “white flower” swaying above the grass. It was the tip of a leopard’s tail, showing just enough to give away his position. A young male was slipping into the bushes, and we followed. Keeping track of a leopard in thick vegetation is rarely straightforward. Often you find yourself out of place, arriving in a clearing just after he has passed, or moving ahead only to discover he has already doubled back. This was exactly the case now. At one point he paused briefly on a rock, but we were behind and missed the shot.

The vulturine guinea fowl is a very unusual looking bird.

Such is the life of a wildlife photographer. Missed opportunities are far more common than perfect frames, and it is simply part of the process. After this we returned to camp for brunch, a rest, and a much-needed shower.

The afternoon brought another game drive, with hopes once again pinned on Giza. The day before she had burst onto the scene, already hunting before we could even settle in. We hoped this time might unfold at a slower pace.

Almost at the exact same time and from nearly the same location as the previous day, she appeared. Animals have their patterns and routines too. This time she moved calmly, strolling and pausing now and then. But the calm was short-lived. Within minutes her body language shifted, and she was back in hunting mode.

Giza still has two cubs on the other side of the territory. They are starting to catch small prey themselves, but they remain dependent on her. With two youngsters to feed, her urgency is understandable. She quickly brought down a dik-dik and hauled it up into a tree for safety from hyenas. Yet even in a tree her kill was not completely safe. Large male leopards can still overpower her. As she fed, the peace was suddenly broken by snarls and a flurry of movement. A big male appeared from nowhere, charged up the tree, and snatched what was left.

The male prowled up and down the branches, seemingly convinced more food must be hidden. By then Giza had slipped away. We left both leopards to settle and made our way back to camp. Another remarkable day in Laikipia, filled with fleeting encounters. Most remain as memories, but a select few that pass the quality test live on as fine art wildlife prints.

Another remarkable day in Laikipia.