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Black Leopard Safari - Day 6

My final morning at Laikipia Wilderness Camp began with one last early game drive before the journey back to Nairobi and the flight home. The goal, as it had been so many times during this safari, was try one last time for Giza the black leopard. We returned to her range in the first hour after dawn, searching carefully for any sign of the melanistic leopard. Like all other mornings, she stayed hidden. She was probably at the other side of the river with her cubs.


African wild dog on the lookout.
African wild dog (aka painted wolf) on the lookout.

With time running short, we shifted our focus back to the African wild dogs. The day before we had tried and failed to track them, even with the help of the camp manager and radio collars. This morning we decided to make another attempt. Using the same radio antenna, we slowly picked up a stronger signal and followed it across the landscape.


At last, success. A pack of six wild dogs appeared in the bushes ahead. This was my first time with these remarkable predators, and it was every bit as thrilling as I had imagined. They moved with constant energy, always alert, always ready to cover ground. And they were not afraid of the vehicle at all which is obviously great for photography. Apparently they visit this part of their territory about once a month or so so we were a bit lucky.


We stayed with them as they explored their surroundings, eventually making their way toward the river. It was obvious that they wanted to cross, but the water was high and running fast after the rains. The dogs walked up and won the bank, tested a few spots, and then pulled back. It seemed too dangerous, and in the end we suspect they gave up the attempt.


Side view of painted wolf or African wild dog.
African wild dog starring intensely into the distance.

We followed them for a while longer before turning back toward camp. There, I packed my bags, said my goodbyes, and began the journey back to Nairobi.


Spending time with the wild dogs was a perfect way to close this safari. Their restless energy, teamwork, and resilience made a deep impression. After days focused on leopards, including the rare black leopard Giza, ending with my first wild dog encounter felt like the final gift from Laikipia. It was a reminder that no matter how carefully you plan, the wild always has the last word, and that is exactly what makes it so unforgettable.

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